If you’re a beginner rock climber, choosing the right pair of climbing shoes can feel overwhelming. With so many brands, fits, and styles, the variety can leave even seasoned climbers confused. But having the right climbing shoes makes all the difference in your comfort, technique, and overall climbing experience. Your shoes are your primary connection to the wall, and selecting the right pair is essential to mastering those first climbs, staying injury-free, and enjoying the sport. This guide will help you understand what to look for, how to determine the perfect fit, and which types of climbing shoes will meet your needs.
Types of Climbing Shoes
Climbing shoes come in several different types, and the choice will depend on the kind of climbing you plan to do. Understanding the different shoe types is the first step in finding the perfect match for your climbing style and skill level.
- Neutral Shoes: Neutral climbing shoes are perfect for beginners. They provide a flat fit that allows for a comfortable, relaxed feel, similar to wearing regular sneakers. These shoes are ideal for all-day climbing and are typically used for gym sessions, long routes, and crack climbing. They also have thicker soles for durability and support, which is great for those just starting out.
- Moderate Shoes: Moderate shoes have a slightly downturned shape (sometimes called a camber), making them suitable for more technical routes and longer climbs. These shoes offer better precision compared to neutral shoes and allow for better edging, making them a good transition option for beginners who are ready to take on more challenging climbs.
- Aggressive Shoes: Aggressive climbing shoes feature a significant downward curve, putting the foot in a powerful, hooked position that’s perfect for overhanging routes and bouldering problems. These shoes provide maximum power and precision but are less comfortable than neutral or moderate shoes. Aggressive shoes are generally recommended for advanced climbers.
Fit Is Everything
The most important factor when choosing climbing shoes is the fit. A properly fitted shoe will allow you to use your feet effectively on small holds, without causing excessive discomfort. Here are some tips to ensure you’re getting the best fit:
- Snug but Not Painful: Your climbing shoes should fit snugly, with no dead space in the heel or toe box, but they should not be so tight that they cause pain. It’s normal for climbing shoes to feel tighter than regular shoes, but you should still be able to tolerate them for the duration of your climb.
- Toes Slightly Curled: In most climbing shoes, your toes should be slightly curled. This helps with precision and allows for better control on small holds. However, they should not be painfully crammed or overlapping. If your toes are scrunched to the point of discomfort, try sizing up or choosing a different model.
- Heel Fit: The heel should fit snugly without any gaps or slippage. If the heel is too loose, it can compromise your ability to heel hook effectively. On the other hand, if the heel feels painfully tight, you may need to look for a shoe with a different heel shape.
- Break-In Period: Keep in mind that climbing shoes will stretch slightly after a few sessions, depending on the material. Leather shoes will generally stretch more than synthetic ones, so it’s okay if they feel a little tight initially, as long as they’re not unbearably uncomfortable.
Closure Systems
Climbing shoes come with different types of closures, each suited to different preferences and climbing styles. Understanding these options will help you decide which system works best for you:
- Laces: Lace-up climbing shoes offer the most customizable fit. You can tighten or loosen them as needed, making them versatile for different climbing styles and foot shapes. Lace-ups are great for long climbs, where comfort is key, as you can adjust them throughout the day.
- Velcro Straps: Velcro (or hook-and-loop) closures are quick and convenient. They’re perfect for gym climbing or bouldering, where you may be taking your shoes on and off frequently. However, they don’t offer the same precise fit as laces, so they may not be ideal for long multi-pitch routes.
- Slip-On (Elastic): Slip-on shoes, often called “slippers,” don’t have laces or straps. They’re typically used for training and crack climbing, as they allow for more sensitivity and a closer fit. However, they lack the adjustability of laces or Velcro and may not be the best choice for beginners who need more support.
Material Matters
The materials used in climbing shoes affect their stretch, durability, and comfort. The two most common materials are leather and synthetic fabrics, and each has its own benefits:
- Leather: Leather climbing shoes are known for their ability to stretch and mold to the shape of your foot over time. Unlined leather shoes can stretch up to a full size, while lined leather shoes have less stretch. Leather shoes are breathable, making them more comfortable for long climbs.
- Synthetic: Synthetic shoes won’t stretch as much as leather, which means they’ll maintain their original fit for longer. They’re often preferred by climbers who want a consistent fit without the break-in period. Synthetic shoes are also more vegan-friendly, as they don’t use animal products.
The Importance of Rubber
The rubber used on the sole of the climbing shoe is crucial for grip and performance. Softer rubber provides better stickiness, making it ideal for smearing and technical footwork. However, it wears down faster, especially for beginners who might drag their feet. Harder rubber, on the other hand, is more durable and provides better support for edging, making it a good choice for those just starting out.
The thickness of the rubber also matters. Thicker rubber soles (4-5mm) are more durable and provide additional support, which is helpful for new climbers working on their foot technique. Thinner rubber soles, while offering greater sensitivity, tend to wear out faster and are typically used by more advanced climbers.
Indoor vs. Outdoor Climbing Shoes
Another factor to consider is whether you plan to climb indoors or outdoors. Indoor climbing shoes tend to experience more wear and tear due to the abrasive nature of climbing holds in gyms. If you’re primarily climbing indoors, you might want to choose a more durable, less expensive shoe. Outdoor climbing shoes, on the other hand, may benefit from stickier rubber for better performance on natural rock surfaces.
Many climbers choose to have two pairs of shoes—one for the gym and one for outdoor use. This helps extend the life of the shoes and ensures that you have the right performance features for each setting.
Sizing Tips for Climbing Shoes
Sizing climbing shoes can be tricky, especially since sizing varies significantly between brands and models. Here are some tips to help you get the best fit:
- Try Them On: Whenever possible, try on climbing shoes in person. Sizes can vary widely, even within the same brand, so it’s essential to try different models to find the best fit.
- Time of Day: Try on climbing shoes later in the day when your feet are slightly swollen. This will give you a more accurate idea of how the shoes will feel during a long climbing session.
- Socks or No Socks: Climbing shoes are typically worn without socks for a closer fit and better sensitivity. When trying on shoes, avoid wearing socks so you can get an accurate sense of the fit.
- Listen to Your Feet: If a shoe feels painfully tight in the store, it’s unlikely to get comfortable over time. While climbing shoes should fit snugly, they shouldn’t cause significant pain. Trust your instincts when it comes to comfort.
Budget Considerations
Climbing shoes come in a wide range of prices, from budget-friendly options to high-performance models costing well over $200. As a beginner, it’s not necessary to invest in the most expensive shoes. Instead, look for a well-fitting, comfortable pair that offers the right balance of performance and durability. Many brands offer entry-level models that provide excellent value without breaking the bank.
If you’re unsure whether climbing is something you’ll stick with, consider renting shoes from a gym or buying used shoes to start. This way, you can get a feel for the sport without making a significant financial commitment.
Caring for Your Climbing Shoes
Proper care will extend the life of your climbing shoes and ensure they continue to perform well. Here are some tips for taking care of your shoes:
- Clean Them Regularly: Chalk, dirt, and sweat can build up inside your shoes, leading to unpleasant odors and reduced performance. Wipe them down after each session and occasionally clean the insides with a damp cloth.
- Avoid Extreme Heat: Keep your climbing shoes away from direct sunlight and extreme heat, as high temperatures can cause the rubber to degrade or delaminate.
- Let Them Air Out: After climbing, let your shoes air out to prevent bacteria growth and minimize odor. Avoid keeping them in a closed bag for extended periods.
- Resole When Needed: The rubber soles of climbing shoes will eventually wear down, especially if you climb frequently. Instead of buying a new pair, consider getting your shoes resoled. Resoling is more cost-effective and environmentally friendly, allowing you to extend the life of a well-broken-in pair of shoes.
Finding the Right Shoe for You
Ultimately, the best climbing shoe for you will depend on your climbing goals, the type of climbing you plan to do, and your personal comfort preferences. It’s okay if your first pair isn’t perfect—climbing is a learning process, and your preferences will evolve as you gain experience.
As you progress in your climbing journey, you may find yourself experimenting with different types of shoes for different purposes—a comfortable pair for long multi-pitch routes, a downturned shoe for bouldering, or a high-performance model for projecting difficult climbs. The key is to start with a shoe that fits well, feels comfortable, and helps you build confidence on the wall.
