If you’ve spent any time at a climbing gym or out at a crag, you’ve probably heard climbers talking about grades: “That’s a 5.10a!” or “This problem is V5.” For beginners, understanding climbing grades can feel like learning a new language. Climbing grades are used to communicate the difficulty of a route or problem, but they can be confusing because different grading systems are used around the world, and even within the same country. This guide will help you make sense of climbing grades and understand what they really mean for your climbing experience.
The Basics of Climbing Grades
Climbing grades are intended to provide a relative indication of the difficulty of a climb. They take into account factors such as the steepness of the rock, the size and shape of the holds, the technical requirements, and the physical endurance needed to complete the climb. However, grades are inherently subjective—they represent one person’s (or a group’s) opinion of how challenging a particular climb is, and different people may find the same route easier or harder depending on their own strengths and weaknesses.
There are two primary types of climbing that use different grading systems: bouldering and roped climbing. Each has its own grading scale, and these scales can vary depending on the country or even the specific climbing area.
Bouldering Grades
Bouldering grades are used to indicate the difficulty of short, powerful climbing routes that are typically done without ropes. There are two main bouldering grading systems that are widely used: the V Scale and the Font Scale.
- The V Scale: The V Scale is commonly used in North America and was named after John “Verm” Sherman, a pioneer of bouldering in the United States. The scale starts at V0 and increases, with the difficulty progressing as the number goes up (e.g., V1, V2, V3, etc.). There is no upper limit to the V Scale, and new routes are constantly pushing the boundaries, with some boulder problems rated as high as V16 or V17.
- The Font Scale: The Fontainebleau, or Font Scale, is used predominantly in Europe, particularly in France. It starts at 3 and increases in difficulty, with grades like 4, 5, 6A, 6B, 7A, and so on. The Font Scale has more subdivisions than the V Scale, which allows for more precise grading, but can also make it seem more complicated.
Both scales are designed to indicate the technical difficulty and physical effort required for a boulder problem, but they do not take into account the height of the climb or the risk of injury from a fall.
Roped Climbing Grades
Roped climbing includes different types, such as sport climbing, traditional climbing (trad climbing), and top-rope climbing. The grades for these climbs are meant to reflect the overall difficulty of ascending a longer route that involves ropes and belaying. There are several grading systems used worldwide, but the most common are the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS), the French Scale, and the UIAA Scale.
- Yosemite Decimal System (YDS): The YDS is used primarily in North America and is the grading system you’ll encounter most often in the United States. It starts at 5.0 and goes up from there. Climbing routes from 5.0 to 5.4 are considered easy, while routes from 5.5 to 5.8 are moderate. The grade 5.9 is considered challenging for most beginners, and anything above 5.10 starts to become progressively more difficult, with the addition of letters (5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10c, 5.10d) to further refine the grade.
- French Scale: The French Scale is widely used in Europe and is similar to the YDS in terms of what it measures. It starts at 4 and goes up, with grades like 5, 6a, 6b, 7a, 7b, and so on. The higher the number, the more difficult the route. The French Scale is also used to rate sport climbing routes that rely on pre-placed bolts.
- UIAA Scale: The UIAA Scale is used in Germany, Austria, and other parts of Europe. It starts at Roman numeral III and progresses upward (IV, V, VI, etc.). As the numbers go up, the difficulty of the route increases. The UIAA Scale is commonly used for traditional climbing routes.
What Climbing Grades Consider (and What They Don’t)
Climbing grades provide a sense of how difficult a route is, but they don’t tell the whole story. Here are some factors that climbing grades typically consider:
- Technical Difficulty: The complexity of the moves required, such as delicate foot placements, balance, and hand sequences.
- Physical Strength and Endurance: The amount of upper body, core, and finger strength required, as well as the endurance needed to complete a route.
- Type of Holds: The size and quality of the holds, such as crimps, slopers, jugs, or pinches.
- Overhang and Angle: The steepness of the rock face or wall. Overhanging routes are generally more challenging and receive higher grades.
However, grades don’t account for factors like:
- Fear Factor: Exposure (the sense of height or air beneath you) can make a climb feel much more difficult, but it doesn’t affect the grade.
- Risk of Injury: While bouldering grades do not consider the danger of a fall, traditional climbing routes may feel riskier due to the need to place your own protection.
- Height and Reach: Climbing routes can feel very different for climbers of different heights. A move that is easy for a tall climber might feel impossible for someone shorter, but the grade remains the same.
Subjectivity of Climbing Grades
One of the most important things to understand about climbing grades is that they are subjective. A route that feels like a 5.10a to one climber might feel more like a 5.9 to another, depending on their individual strengths and weaknesses. Grades can also vary between climbing areas—what’s considered a 5.10 in one location might be graded as a 5.11 elsewhere.
The subjectivity of grades can also be influenced by the style of climbing that the route requires. For example, a climber who excels at overhanging, powerful routes may find a slabby, balance-intensive route more challenging, even if it’s graded lower. This is why it’s essential to approach grades as guidelines rather than absolute measures of difficulty.
How to Use Climbing Grades Effectively
Understanding climbing grades can help you choose routes that are appropriate for your skill level, track your progress, and set goals. Here are some tips for using climbing grades effectively:
- Challenge Yourself Gradually: Start with climbs that are within your comfort zone, then gradually increase the difficulty as you build strength, technique, and confidence. Pushing yourself to try routes that are slightly above your current ability is a great way to improve, but be mindful not to overdo it.
- Track Your Progress: Climbing grades can help you track your progress over time. As you become more comfortable with a particular grade, it’s a good indicator that you’re ready to move on to more challenging climbs.
- Respect the Grade: While grades are subjective, they are still a useful guideline. If you’re struggling on a route that’s graded below what you normally climb, it’s okay—it may just not suit your climbing style. Respect the grade, and use it as motivation to improve in areas where you may be weaker.
- Seek Out a Variety of Routes: To become a well-rounded climber, it’s important to challenge yourself on different types of climbs. Seek out routes with different features, such as overhangs, slabs, cracks, and aretes, even if they are at a lower grade than what you typically climb.
Climbing Grades Around the World
Climbing is a global sport, and grading systems vary depending on where you are in the world. Here’s a quick overview of some of the different grading systems you might encounter:
- British Trad Grades: In the UK, traditional climbs are graded using a combination of a technical grade (which indicates the hardest move on the route) and an adjectival grade (which considers overall difficulty, seriousness, and exposure). For example, a route graded “HVS 5a” is a “Hard Very Severe” climb with a technical difficulty of 5a.
- Australian and South African Grades: Both Australia and South Africa use a numerical grading system that starts at 1 (very easy) and goes up, with the hardest climbs currently rated in the mid-30s.
- Brazilian Grades: Brazil uses a system similar to the French Scale, starting at 1 and going up, with climbs graded in increasing difficulty.
The Joy of Climbing Beyond the Grades
While grades are an important part of climbing, it’s crucial to remember that they are just one aspect of the experience. Climbing is about more than just numbers—it’s about problem-solving, pushing yourself, and enjoying the journey. Whether you’re working on a V0 or projecting a 5.13, every climb has something to teach you. Focus on the process, celebrate your successes, and learn from your challenges.
Understanding climbing grades can help you make informed decisions about which routes to try and give you a sense of progression. However, the true reward of climbing lies in the experience itself—the thrill of reaching the top, the camaraderie with fellow climbers, and the personal growth that comes from facing challenges head-on.
